23 November, Bundi to Begun, 98km (a)"Where
have all the camels gone?" I discovered myself humming on the bumpy track out of
Bundi. Its odd how the transportational paradigm has shifted so radically from
camels- to cow-pulled carts, ironically at the point where the landscape becomes more
desert-like. It seems camels would be ideally suited to this barren wasteland.
I regretted leaving Bundi so soon, since for me it marked the first truly appealing
town weve come across in India, full of crumbling palaces, ornate ancient mansions
and mysterious narrow streets. Even our room in a 200-year-old havelihad been
perfect, with geometric stone screens, abundant little alcoves, and lots of colored glass.
Our tour of the towns fort had also been a highlight. Our young guide J.P. and his
even younger brother ably led us around a ruined wonderland of palaces, wells, temples,
wall paintings and treacherous passageways.
But tiny Bundi quickly receded under our tires and we were swallowed by the desert. We
had learned from experience to carry plenty of extra water and were loaded down with a
gallon apiece, feeling like the camels that were so conspicuously absent.
Just as I was thinking how much more colorful and friendly the people were becoming in
this part of the world all turbaned and bejewelled, smiling and namaste-inga
man leapt up from a group of people waiting by the side of the road (presumably for a bus)
and motioned for us to stop. I went through my usual charade of smiling and shaking my
head, indicating the horizon towards which we were headed, but this man wouldnt take
no for an answer. He made me stop by clamping himself on to my rear rack, and then did the
same to Fred, who had come to my aid. The man had a crazed or drunken look (perhaps both)
and was hurting Fred, digging his nails into my beloved riding partners forearm.
When it became clear that this aggressors intent was hostile, I acted instinctively,
pulling our my pepper spray and letting loose.
While I didnt get him in the eyes the heretofore unused canister had its desired
effect. The scary ogre let go of Fred, stood there stunned for a moment and then hurled
curses and stones at us as we pedaled breathlessly away. I instantly felt terrible having
used such a nasty weapon, but for other reasons than Fred. "That was stupid
Andrew!" he chastised me, "those people were waiting for a bus. How do you know
they wont come the same way as us and throw stuff out the windows at us, run us off
the road, or worse?" I thought he was being unduly paranoid, yet cringed every time I
heard a vehicle coming up from behind.
Though marked as a major highway on our maps there was virtually no traffic on our
road, and the dreaded first bus didnt pass us until hours later without
incident. At one point our route climbed sharply through violent rock formations to the
top of an arid plateau. Just as the road crested we heard a car honking excitedly behind
us. Was it our enemy from down the road? No, it was Howard and Jane and their Sikh driver.
The most enthusiastic British couple weve ever met on the road, they stopped to chat
with us and supplied us with much-appreciated fruit. Jane even dug out her first aid kit
to tend to Freds scratches. A little further, in the center of a small town called
Bijolia, a major crowd had gathered around a white Jeep. It held three bewildered-looking
Danes, en route from Sawai Madhopur to Udaipur. I was relieved to see that not only
cyclists receive undue amounts of attention in rural India.
Beyond Bijolia, the terrain grew progressively more hostile, dotted with strange little
villages made entirely out of great chunks of rock, making them nearly indistinguishable
from the surrounding landscape. The people living here were obviously very poor, and we
wondered what they could possibly be living on in such a hostile environment.
At an unmarked crossroads in the middle of nowhere we turned off the main road onto a
smaller, utterly abandoned track. We didnt see any sign of life for miles. Fred
began to fret vociferously over whether wed made a wrong turn somewhere. But when a
village eventually appeared, a cluster of squatting men with elaborate tikas
assured us that we were on the right track. Leaving them behind, our road took a sudden,
dramatic plunge from the plateau back to the level of the valley. Had the road been smooth
it would have been a fantastic descent
Below, it was as if wed suddenly been transported into a tropical Eden. Our route
was shaded and everything was green. Pastures flourished, birds chirped and peasants
smiled and waved. When I asked an adolescent pedaling alongside us where Begun was he
informed us wed already arrived, and led us to the little towns transportation
hub. Naturally we were instantly swarmed when we stopped to inquire about lodgertunities.
None of our interlocuters agreed as to where or if a suitable hotel could be found in the
vicinity. When someone indicated a "guest house" just above the bus terminal
Fred muttered bitterly, "Lets just take a jeep to Chittor." But wed
read about the local palace being a hotel (in Howard and Janes guidebook) and I
figured it was worth investigating.
We blindly put our faith in two men on motorbike who only spoke Hindi. They led us back
out into the countryside to a small house which was definitely not a hotel. Then somehow
Fred found a tall and elegant guy in white pajamas who led us back to the town center. He
rapped on an old iron gate, which creaked open to reveal a run-down institutional-looking
building set in a desiccated garden.
"This is a hotel?" I asked incredulously to our new guide, who nodded
vigorously in response. Someone was sent inside and two seconds later a handsome young
Hindu emerged, self-possessed and genteel. When our pajamad friend started bowing
and scraping I knew we were dealing with a local bigshot.
"Excuse me, but is this a hotel?" I repeated.
"Well, were not yet properly equipped to take in guests, but perhaps
youd like to come in and discuss it with my father," came the remarkably civil
reply. If this isnt yet a hotel, I thought, why isnt he sending the sweaty
likes of me on my merry way?
No one had to explain to me that the person I was about to meet was the head honcho of
the village. A small crowd had joined Fred at the gate to peer inside with awe. I walked
through the door and past a desk indicating "Hari Singh Palace Hotel" and into a
large dining room, where I shook hands with the beaming personage of Rao Hari Singh. When
I explained to him our story and our predicament all he said was: "I want to see
these bicycles." When I told him that they were outside the gate with Fred, he
insisted jovially, "bring them in, bring them in."
Ajay, as the son is known, led me back outside, explaining without the slightest hint
of pretense "I should tell you that ours is the leading family of Begun."
"I kind of guessed that," I rejoined.
Over tea we learned that Rao Hari Singh was the 22nd in his noble line, an
offshoot of the royal family of Udaipur. He told us of the many changes Indias
nobility has had to endure in order to survive, how he and his sons had all attended a
special school for Rajput princes in Jaipur ("but now anyone with money can
go"), how in his youth he had hunted tigers ("but of course theyre
protected now") and how he had decided to convert his abandoned castle-fort into a
luxury hotel ("its really the only way to maintain such a property. We
ourselves have just moved back in after twenty years in this house, in order to get a feel
for the place as well as ideas for guest rooms.").
Ajay noted the time and said we ought to get going if we were going to see anything
before dark. So off we set in a little jeep with a curtain in the back seat (he explained
that his mother still keeps purdah, a fact which astounded me), quickly covering
the 200 meters separating the two palaces. To enter the compound one first crosses a moat,
then past a medieval-looking hamlet inhabited by members of the family retinue, under a
gate or two, past the former elephant stables (now housing prized Holsteins) and into a
large courtyard surrounded by grand buildings in various stages of decay.
Ajay guided us up ancient staircases leading to series of long-neglected rooms, now
being refurbished. Serfs I mean servantswere installing a septic system and no
fewer than twelve bathrooms. He showed us his apartment, then that of his parents. The
latter of these had fantastic peacocks molded onto the walls and a little porch hanging
over the valley right out of a dream. We saw the little shrine where the rao performed his
puja every morning and I was struck by the level of intimacy so easily being shared
with strangers.
We also visited nearby stepwells, temples and the royal cenotaphs where one former rao
murdered in his sleep by a servantis worshipped now by the villagers as a god
wow!
The rao was waiting for us when we returned, with buckets of hot water to bathe with.
Our room had been set up and it was settled that wed have dinner with the family up
in the castle at eight. Why was he so determined to take such good care of us? Is such
alarming hospitality a typical Rajput trait, or had we stumbled onto something special
here?
Dinner was superb. As we munched aloo palak and various other treats, the
rao explained how he had formerly been "strictly non-veg" but had had an
epiphany a few years ago where he realized that "to kill an animal just to please the
tongue" would not improve his karmic balance. Ajay, on the other hand, had undergone
precisely the inverse of this mental process. Until recently he had been a strict
vegetarian, "but then I realized that this idea of not hurting other living things
could also be applied to plants, so I abandoned the whole idea; now sweet corn and chicken
soup is one of my favorite dishes."
We could have stayed up all night talking with this delightfully quirky and erudite
pair. I wondered how often they got a chance to share their level of cultivation in
backwards Begun. Falling asleep that night I realized we had just experienced what would
probably be the highlight of our whole voyage through India.