15 June, Kaeng Khut
Khu to Sang Khorn, 105km (a)Looking out over the
mesmerizing expanse of the Mekong and gnawing on an
energy bar at five-thirty this morning, I could think of
little besides clambering back into bed. But once we had
climbed back into the saddle and were whirring down the
road I felt revitalized, energized from a full day of
torpor (and sleep) in which we never wandered more than a
hundred meters from our miniature riverside bungalow. It
was a beautiful day and it felt fantastic to be back on
the road.
We cranked through villages full of the familiar sight
of uniformed kids on their way to school, who would
interrupt their renditions of the distressingly
ubiquitous World Cup song (if heterosexuality ever had an
anthem, this would be it) to scream
"HELLOHELLOHELLO" at us. Others would just
shout "farang" (foreigner of European
descent) to alert their friends and families of our
passage --most likely to be the most talked-about event
of the day. Fred thought these villages looked more
prosperous than the others weve seen lately, but
most of the housing looked pretty basic to me. I suppose
in comparison to some of the villages discernible across
the river in Laos, the Thai side looked like Switzerland.
Our largely shaded road squiggled right along the
ever-wider river, seeking the highest points along its
banks to avoid flooding in the rainy season (and not
always succeeding, we were able to deduce from the
roads often washed-out surface). For many
kilometers it was hard to make out the river from its
vast swampy riverbed, and we wondered out loud what a
sight it would be to see the river swell after a heavy
rain.
In spite of numerous hills and without the aid of a
tailwind, our average speed kept climbing through the
day, peaking at 23.4km/hr (meaningless to you,
astonishing to us). We made the usual stops at Thai-style
seven-elevens, gulping down water and perusing the
contents of the ice cream chest. I think Fred had his
first icecreamy treat at something like seven-thirty,
while I held off until at least nine. I should note here
how these roadside groceries are all essentially the same
both aesthetically and experientially. All are housed in
garage-looking buildings that double as the
shopkeepers homes. The living quarters are always
clearly visible behind the shop, and the two spaces are
never really delineated from each other. One or more
glass-fronted cases of cold beverages are prominently
displayed, while suspended from bits of twine hang
various junk food items, household supplies, dried
squids, candy and auto parts. Without fail a terrazzo
picnic table graces the area in front of the shop, but as
this is usually in the sun, we tend to loiter in the
shade under a metal canopy just outside, next to tables
holding eggs, motor oil, shallots, chilies, and
houseplants. I cant recall an instance where the
proprietor of the shop hasnt dragged out a pair of
chairs or stools for us to sit on. The consistency of the
experience is really quite amazing, uncanny even, making
it very difficult to remember any specific stop, only the
general experience. Usually we sit for a good quarter of
an hour longer if were severely
overheatedmaking feeble attempts at communication
with our gracious host (all weve really mastered in
Thai are the numbers), providing entertainment for any
villagers who happen by.
These stops tend to occur at twenty-to-thirty
kilometer intervals, so we had already made three or four
by the time we reached Sang Khorn, our intended stop for
the night. Seeing a sign marked "Mamas
Riverside Lodge" we turned up a dirt road leading to
nothing but a school. Just as we were about to turn back,
a squat woman on a motorbike began frantically waving at
us, pointing out a couple of other farang on
bikes. We pedaled up to meet Kevin from South Africa,
Angela from Canada, and Mama herself. They had just been
watching a performance at the school concerning mosquito
control. Kevin and Angela were hoping to ride out to the
waterfall but had flat tires. We whipped out our pumps
which werent the right flavor, it turns out,
and queried them about their situation. They had met in
Taiwan, where both taught English for two years, and were
now on an extended tour through Asia before moving to
Japan for more teaching. Mama listened through all this
before she gave her pitch: "Mama have nice bungalow
for you, right on river." We agreed to at least
check it out and have lunch there. "Shes a
good cook," enthused Angela, "but the place is
a little on the rustic side."
Rustic indeed. To get there we had to push our bikes
through knee-high razor grass and cross a perilously
flimsy bridge over a gorge. But Mamas place
not much more than a patch of dirt with a few
crooked hutsdid have a great view of the river, and
while I wouldnt go out of my way to praise her
culinary abilities, it was nice to order from a menu
printed in English. Her personality is what sold us
though. For someone who runs a guesthouse catering to
foreigners, her English is appallingly deficient, but we
found her manic, slightly unbalanced manner completely
infectious, and as about as much entertainment as one can
hope to find in a sleepy little village like Sang Khorn.
Much of the afternoon was spent lazing on the balcony
of our little two-dollar hut, which featured that most
prized of amenities: a hammock. When the sun lowered in
the sky, I went down to the beach-like riverbank to watch
locals interact with the mighty, muddy current. Kids swam
noisily; old men fished with nets in the calmer eddies;
motorboats went back and forth on mysterious missions to
Laos. I observed a weedy bush full of butterflies for a
while, then headed up for my fourth shower of the day.
When night fell, we were surprised that Kevin and
Angela hadnt reappeared. Then Mama arrived on her
motorbike, puffing and sweating, her many layers of
makeup melting on her face. Waddling up to us, she
launched into a frantic account of the days
unfortunate events: "Mama go police. Farang
go waterfall, Thai people steal money, passport African
boy. So bad so bad. Mama feel bad because Mama no say
waterfall bad place. Here in village no problem, but
waterfall many people poor, people steal. You want
eat?" Here she pointed to Fred and said for the
twentieth time today, "He too sa-kee-nee" and
went on to advise him to be careful not to anger me,
since I could so obviously beat him up.
After a while Angela and Kevin came moping back to
camp. We shared a vegetarian dinner with them, listening
to their woeful tale and offering assistance. I was
surprised when Kevin lit up a joint right there at the
dinner table.
"You dont think Mama would mind?" I
asked in a hushed tone.
"I doubt it, since shes the one who sold me
the dope," Kevin responded in his peculiar accent.
"Everyone in Nong Khai told us to come here.
Mamas dope is famous throughout the Northeast of
Thailand. She brings it over from Laos."
Falling asleep under the mosquito net later, I
wondered if Id discovered the key to understanding
Mamas peculiar brand of flakiness.